In recent years, sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) has grown ever-more popular among cosmeticists and dermatologists alike, emerging as a formidable player in skincare with scientific research increasingly supporting its efficacy. This hardy shrub, known for its vibrant orange berries, is a treasure trove of bioactive compounds that offer a multitude of benefits for skin health and appearance.
At the heart of sea buckthorn's skincare prowess lies its rich and diverse composition. The fruits and seeds of this plant are packed with an impressive array of bioactive substances, including polysaccharides, flavonoids, fatty acids, vitamins, and phytosterols (Rodriguez et al., 2024, and She et al., 2024). This unique blend of compounds contributes significantly to sea buckthorn's edible and medicinal value, making it a versatile ingredient in both nutrition and skincare formulations.
One of the standout features of sea buckthorn is its potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Research has shown that sea buckthorn berry polysaccharides (SP) exhibit significant capabilities in these areas, even demonstrating the ability to mitigate liver damage induced by carbon tetrachloride (She et al., 2024, and Zielińska & Nowak, 2017). These properties are crucial in skincare, as they help combat oxidative stress and inflammation, two key factors in skin aging and damage.
The flavonoid content of sea buckthorn is particularly noteworthy. Comprising approximately 0.95% of the fruit content, these compounds include glycoside analogs like isorhamnetin, quercetin, populin, and kaempferol (She et al., 2024). In vitro studies have demonstrated the impressive free radical scavenging abilities of sea buckthorn crude flavonoids, with an ABTS radical scavenging rate of 82.3% (She et al., 2024). This potent antioxidant activity suggests that sea buckthorn-based skincare products could offer significant protection against environmental stressors that contribute to premature skin aging.
Beyond its antioxidant capabilities, sea buckthorn has shown promising results in other areas of skin health. For instance, sea buckthorn has been shown to reduce the symptoms of bed sores, inflammatory lesions, eczema, and even acnes (Saravanakumar et al., 2024, & Zielińska & Nowak, 2017). Specifically, in one study, sea buckthorn flavonoid nanoemulsions exhibited strong antibacterial properties against Propionibacterium acnes, a bacterium associated with acne. At a concentration of 30mg/mL, these nanoemulsions demonstrated an impressive inhibition rate of 93.3%±0.6% (She et al., 2024). A separate study by Wan et al. (2024) also found sea buckthorn extract to exhibit “significant inhibitory effects on different bacteria”, specifically Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Salmonella typhimurium, and Listeria monocytogenes.
Furthermore, sea buckthorn crude flavonoids have shown a remarkable tyrosinase inhibition rate of 82.3% (She et al., 2024). Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanin production, and its inhibition suggests that sea buckthorn-based products could be effective in addressing hyperpigmentation and promoting a more even skin tone.
The fatty acid composition of sea buckthorn oil, particularly from the seeds, has also garnered scientific interest. Research has identified both saturated (palmitic) and non-saturated (linoleic, alfa-linolenic, oleic) fatty acids in sea buckthorn seed oil (Dudau et al., 2021). Notably, a fraction enriched in palmitic acid demonstrated cell proliferation properties on both keratinocytes and skin fibroblasts, indicating potential regenerative effects on normal skin cells (Dudau et al., 2021). This finding opens up exciting possibilities for sea buckthorn oil in anti-aging and skin rejuvenation products.
In terms of practical application, a gel leave-on mask formulation containing sea buckthorn extract has shown excellent stability under various conditions, including different pH levels and salt concentrations (She et al., 2024). Clinical studies with this formulation demonstrated significant improvements in skin hydration, reduction of skin roughness, decrease in skin pigmentation, and improvement in skin inflammation over a three-week period (She et al., 2024).
As research continues to unveil the myriad benefits of sea buckthorn in skincare, it's clear that this natural ingredient has much to offer. From its potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties to its potential in addressing specific skin concerns like acne and hyperpigmentation, sea buckthorn is proving to be a versatile and effective component in modern skincare formulations. As we continue to harness the power of nature in our quest for healthier, more radiant skin, sea buckthorn stands out as a true skincare superstar, backed by growing scientific evidence.
